Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

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Radioclare
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby Radioclare » Mon May 20, 2019 6:49 am

Meddysong wrote:
IronMike wrote:Hey, when's your Russia trip?
Don't ask her that! I keep getting in trouble for mentioning that it's two weeks away! Plus we've got a trip to Kiev next weekend. At least that means she'll get a bit of practice in before we go.


My Russia trip is still ages away. Plenty of time left for me to learn to speak Russian before I get there!

Any recommendations gratefully appreciated :-) I feel like my head is spinning after reading about Kiev, Moscow and St Petersburg in the same weekend :lol:
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby IronMike » Mon May 20, 2019 12:40 pm

St. Pete: Put at least two days aside for the Hermitage. So much beautiful art there. Also a fun thing to do is see how close you can get to a piece of artwork before the babushka gets off her chair to yell at you. Also go out to Ekaterina's summer palace (Екатерининский дворец). Well worth the drive out there. The amber room, despite not having any amber left (damn Nazis), is just wonderful to be in. To imagine the grandeur and pomp of that time period. Also all the churches there...wonderful. I liked walking along the canals, listening to all the various languages spoken around. If you walk by Furshtatskaya Ulitsa, 15, and could take a picture for me, I'd appreciate it. ;) There's also a very nice Dom Knigi on Nevsky that overlooks the avenue. Get your book-fix there. (Although, if you can wait till Moscow, do.) Oh! And I never made it out to Kronshtadt Island, but friends who did said it was a nice trip.

Moscow: My God, where to begin. First off, the metro is so easy and cheap. Use it for everything. Now things to see. The WWII museum (Музей Победы, use the Park Pobedy metro stop, which also happens to be the deepest. Takes 2:45 to go down the escalator!) is simply incredible. There's a room there with crystals hanging from the ceiling, one for every Russian killed in the War. Yes, 6 million. Simply moving. The entire park is wonderful to walk around. Good chance you'll see some WWII vets walking around there. If they have a medal hanging from their chest, red ribbon with a gold star hanging below it, they're a hero of the Soviet Union.

Over at Gorky Park (Park Kultury metro), after you've walked through the park and possibly ridden the super expensive roller coaster, go across the street to the Tretyakov museum. Before going in, walk through the sculpture park. Beautiful. Inside the Tretyakov, well what can I say. Art you've only seen in books. Amazing.

If the day is beautiful, go out to Tsaritsyno Palace (Царицыно, and the metro is called the same). Wonderful to walk around and great place for pictures.

For cheap(er) souvenirs, go to Izmailovo (Измайлово, but don't get off at the Izmailovskaya metro stop. Get off one short of that, Partizanskaya, and follow the crowds to the market. You'll see what looks like fairy-tale buildings...go that way). Cheaper everything there, way cheaper than the souvenir shops on the Old Arbat (also worth visiting, see below).

Before going to the Kremlin and Red Square, go to Old Arbat street (many stops possible, the two Smolenskaya's and the two Arbatskaya's). Very fun pedestrian street. A small Pushkin monument there (Памятник Александру Пушкину и Наталье Гончаровой). If you and Meddysong are gonna get married (if you're not already), then you need to get a picture in front of Mrs. Pushkin. Eat at Mumu if you haven't by this time (ул. Арбат, 45/24) and get a picture with the cow out front. Best Russian food and pretty cheap for Moscow. There's also one exception here on Old Arbat with respect to souvenirs: Арбатская лавица at Old Arbat, 27. It's where all the souvenir artists/producers send their rejects. But you wouldn't know it. We got almost all our lacquer trays from there. Have no idea why they were rejected but they were beautiful. More expensive than Izmailovo, but cheaper than any other souvenir shop in Moscow center. (Btw, your embassy is not a far cry from Old Arbat and Novyy Arbat, if you need anything. Right on the Moscow river at Смоленская наб., 10.)

Take the Kremlin tour. Awesome. Tsar Bell. Tsar Cannon. Ekaterina's dresses. Everything. Worth the money and the time waiting/walking. In Red Square, walk through GUM. Coffee was about the only thing we ever could afford to buy there. Go see Lenin; rumor has it the Russians are gonna bury him someday. Don't put your hands in your pockets while in the mausoleum. St. Basil's is worth going into too. Don't go upstairs until you're done on the first floor; you can't come back down and once on the 2nd floor, the only way out is to exit!

When done on Red Square, go down Nikolskaya (runs SW to NE, between GUM and the State Historical Museum, also worth a visit) until you see a huge yellow building in front of you. That's Lyubanka, former HQ of the KGB and current HQ of the FSB. To the right of that building is the #1 best bookstore in Moscow, Biblio Globus, at Мясницкая ул., 6/3. Check it out, but if you are buying anything, use cash. "Foreign" credit cards never worked for us there. On the left side of Lyubanka is one of the best restaurants in town: GlavPivTorg. It's on ул. Большая Лубянка, 5, all mahogany, so pretty. They used to do a Sunday brunch, hope they still do. Took a new embassy employee there, he had Russian grandparents. Imagine this big, 6'2" lug of a guy looking at the brunch spread, with his eyes starting to water. "I haven't seen food like this since before my grandparents died in the early '90s." The food was incredible. Hopefully they're still doing the brunch. Restaurant is worth going to anyway. They have the Ukrainian version of borscht, too, which I love.

Go to the Pushkin State Museum at ул. Волхонка, 12. Get off at Kropotskinskaya and walk around the Cathedral of Christ the Savior. Pushkin is across the street. Worth a visit.

There are some Esperanto sights to see in Moscow, too. If you're interested in this, let me know and I'll get addresses for you from Boris Kolker's wonderful book Vojaĝo en Esperanto-lando.

Enjoy! Take lots of pictures!
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby MamaPata » Mon May 20, 2019 12:53 pm

All of my suggestions are Moscow museum suggestions, but I'll make them anyway. (I never went to the Mausoleum, and found GUM pretty boring, but I love St Basil's). The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour is worth seeing if just for the gilt.

I really recommend the Gulag museum. It's really well done and just history that needs to be studied, though obviously incredibly grim (вДудь, whose Youtube channel I like, has just made a documentary about the Gulags, which caused some controversy. I suspect it might be available with subtitles in English, but I haven't watched it yet so can't comment on that or the content).

Garage (for modern art, but also it's in Gorkii park so two for one, and I think it's fun), and the Tretyakov is worth ticking off. I never made it to the modern Tretyakov which is a shame, because it would probably be up my street. I used to live near VDNKh, which has some fun museums, and is an entertaining park wander (also I really recommend seeing the Soviet Worker and Kolkhoz Museum, and the associated museum, though for me that was partly because I'm into the Paris exposition and also it felt very familiar from film intros).

My only other non-museum recommendation would be Novodevichii cemetery.

I have never been to StP so can't comment.
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby IronMike » Mon May 20, 2019 3:03 pm

OMG, you've reminded me of so many more, MamaPata!

Novodevichy, most definitely. And my wife and daughter absolutely loved the Garage. I never got there.

Also, there are little inexpensive museums all over the city. The wife and I went into one on some backstreet near our embassy years ago. I think it cost 50 rubles. Modern art. Mostly crap, like a video of Yoko Ono getting her shirt cut by scissors from members of an audience, flashing back to the '60s to the modern time (2000s). On that floor, we weren't sure if the oscillating fan was a piece of art or an actual fan for Moscow summers. But also in this museum, a Picasso I'd never seen in any art books. Simply breath-taking. Wish I could remember the name of this museum. No! Found it: Московский Музей Современного Искусства. That's gotta be it based on the picture Google is showing me. Ермолаевский пер., 17.

There's also a breakfast place on Садовая-Кудринская ул., 9, called Cook'kareku. Basically, breakfast 24 hours a day, and their specialty is to offer ethnic breakfasts for whatever country/area of the world it is morning at that time. Btw, near the ring road (Садовая) is the Moscow zoo. Not really worth it.

There's also Bulgakov's house (Большая Садовая ул., 10). Always wanted to go there as Master and Margarita is my hands-down fav piece of Russian lit. Never made it.

You really can't go wrong in any Moscow museum. If you see Музей just go in. ))

And if you're a beer drinker, try the local beers. The vast majority are good. You might get a bad one, but they've really come a long way in their beer culture. I've had some of my all-time favorite beers there that I miss so very much.
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby Serpent » Mon May 20, 2019 4:05 pm

MamaPata wrote:My only other non-museum recommendation would be Novodevichii cemetery.
It's in repair, sadly. Afaiu it's open to visits (at least the cemetery), but the exterior cannot be viewed properly.

I'm a huge fan of Atlas obscura and I have visited most of the places it lists for Moscow. Not everything is worth bothering for a first-time visit, obviously. https://www.atlasobscura.com/things-to- ... ort=recent

Seconding Izmailovo Kremlin, Arbat, Biblio Globus, Mumu. Some other nice streetfood chains are крошка-картошка (baked potatoes with different fillings) and теремок (bliny/pancakes with anything you can imagine). I also like the Indian Jagannath chain (Джаганнат), and I'm really not used to spicy stuff tbh :lol: Their ginger drink/имбирный напиток is probably the first spicy thing I ever liked. If you get it, ask them to heat it for you. I also always get a non-spicy drink in addition to it.

At Lubyanka there's also the Children's world (Детский мир) mall, with a nice panorama balcony around the roof. There are also various kinds of ice cream, from real gelato to "nano ice cream" :shock: They all offer you to taste a tiny portion for free before choosing what you want. I left most ice cream stands without buying anything, but I couldn't resist a gelato because it totally tasted like the Italian one. I tried all the tastes first, though :P

Haven't been to the WW2 museum and not a fan of the whole area, but my Brazilian friend loved it. Prepare to walk a lot at Park Pobedy or VDNH (though probably not much by your standards).

Haven't been to Tsaritsyno (and I'd be happy to visit it with you), if you'd like something closer to the centre, Kolomenskoe is a good replacement. Cristina liked it even though she was there on a gloomy rainy autumn morning. Her log on the old forum had some great stories about her travels in Russia btw :D I took her to a Russian sauna (баня) for example.
At Kolomenskoe there's a UNESCO-protected church, and also a wooden palace at the other end of the park (there's a replica of it in Izmailovo).

The metro is very convenient and many stations are beautiful. However, during daylight hours it does feel like a waste of touristy time (assuming the weather is nice). Russian wikipedia has a page about every single station with photos of its interior/artworks. Check in advance whether a station is worth seeing, and if not, consider using buses or trams instead (but not around 6pm :evil:). If possible, don't use any transport at that time, other than during the weekend :lol:

Some lines have segments above the ground, here are those that have bridges - https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Категория ... сты_Москвы Note that Нагатинский метромост is not near Нагатинская metro :lol:, but on a different line. These allow for some great views. Luzhniki stadium can be seen from the Воробьевы горы metro, and there are often free exhibitions at this station. (speaking of that, there are also free exhibitions at Sheremetyevo airport E terminal)
If you take the МЦК (considered line 14), it's also above the ground. There's a huge gap between the platform and the train though, be careful. The trains are very modern there but it can be cold due to the airconditioners. Note that originally it was a railway line around the city; not all stations are close to the metro. (My great-grandma was upset when the railway remained disused for decades) There's an actual village just outside that line - https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sokol

Closer to where you are staying, there's also a model of Moscow - https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/minature-moscow It's open round the clock. It's at a fancy hotel but they're used to visitors, and you don't need to go past the reception desk to get there (just enter and walk straight ahead).

If you want to buy books, ozon.ru has an amazing selection (basically like amazon for Russian books). I can help you make an order and pick it up at a pickup point. I helped Cristina buy some books on Russian art this way.
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby MamaPata » Mon May 20, 2019 6:33 pm

I have to admit, I meant the cemetery itself rather than the convent, though that was also nice!
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby IronMike » Mon May 20, 2019 8:31 pm

Serpent wrote:Closer to where you are staying, there's also a model of Moscow - https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/minature-moscow It's open round the clock. It's at a fancy hotel but they're used to visitors, and you don't need to go past the reception desk to get there (just enter and walk straight ahead).

Is that the model inside the Ukraina hotel, across from the White House? If so, I can second that. Very nice. And if you wanna spend some serious rubles, the Italian restaurant near the top of the hotel is wonderful.

Speaking of restaurants, if you have the time/money, O2 Lounge. Great view, it's one of those rooftop restaurants. Dang the view.
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby Radioclare » Mon May 20, 2019 10:21 pm

Wow, thank you everyone for the recommendations :) Really appreciate the time you've taken to write them out! I feel like I have enough suggestions to fill years of trips to Russia now!

IronMike wrote:If you and Meddysong are gonna get married (if you're not already), then you need to get a picture in front of Mrs. Pushkin.


We've been engaged for 10+ years but not quite made it to marriage; maybe this is where we've been going wrong :lol:

I am intrigued; what will happen if I put my hands in my pockets in mausoleum? :?

I think it would be cheating to tell me about the Esperanto sights; I need to see whether my curse continues and I manage to find any of them while trying to have an Esperanto-free day :lol:



20 May
Mondays are normally my productive day, but I had a headache today so it turned out to be less so.

Russian
I did my normal Memrise and I got through lesson 23 of Pimsleur 2 while walking to/from work. I wish I'd planned my life better so that I had got to the end of Pimsleur before going to Russia, but never mind.

This evening I've been using LWT for amount an hour and I'm within a page or so of finishing chapter 8 of Twilight, but I had to give up because it's bedtime :(

Total time = 117 minutes. Streak = 140 days
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby IronMike » Tue May 21, 2019 12:40 am

Radioclare wrote:
IronMike wrote:If you and Meddysong are gonna get married (if you're not already), then you need to get a picture in front of Mrs. Pushkin.


We've been engaged for 10+ years but not quite made it to marriage; maybe this is where we've been going wrong :lol:


Then you have to get an engraved padlock to put on one of the bridges there. That's what they "do".

Radioclare wrote:I am intrigued; what will happen if I put my hands in my pockets in mausoleum? :?


They'll think you have a camera and come stop you.

Radioclare wrote:I think it would be cheating to tell me about the Esperanto sights; I need to see whether my curse continues and I manage to find any of them while trying to have an Esperanto-free day :lol:

Doubtful you'll find them haphazardly. Mostly they're buildings where either Esperantists were disappeared by Stalin or where Esperantists held meetings in the early days.
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Re: Radioclare's 2019 log (Croatian/Russian)

Postby Radioclare » Tue May 21, 2019 10:24 pm

21 May
I worked quite late again today, so not the most productive of evenings.

Russian
I was going to Birmingham briefly this morning before heading out to a meeting elsewhere, so I got my Memrise fix on the train and then was able to fit in lesson 24 of Pimsleur 2. There's actually some useful practice of cases at the moment, which is quite cool. Although in some hypothetical universe where I was only learning Russian via Pimsleur, I think I would be very confused that there's no explanation of when or why the ending of a word sometimes changes.

This evening I finally finished reading chapter 8 of Twilight :) I still have to listen to the audiobook version. Maybe tomorrow!

Total time = 93 minutes. Streak = 141 days
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